'The New Look'

'In 1947 designer Christian Dior turned the world of fashion on its head when he unveiled his bold line of ultra feminine clothing'(statement quoted from 50 years of fashion book)

The Parisian Couture houses were going through a hard time during the War. Designs were still being made and sold, but not everyone could afford or even reach them.
In late 40's the designer Christian Dior brought fashion back, when he unveiled his new season of clothing, that were totally different from the wartime. Clothes were soft, sloping shoulders over clinched in waists and full skirts which came to mid-calf, expensive fabrics were used as well as bustles, bows, wide sleeve, the contrast to the military style with straight skirt and padded shoulders couldn't have been more marked.
The collection was named 'The New Look', by a London private garment maker, that described the total glorification of the female form.
In Great Britain, women were delighted, but politicians were dismayed, and people were still suffering from shortages of materials and clothes.
It was needed extreme yards of fabric, in order to make the full and long skirts, which were seen as sinfully and very extravagant.
The collection was shown in secret, to the princesses at the time, but the king forbidden them to adopt the look, as it was seen as bad example.
The garments from the 'New Look' collection weren't affordable for everyone as it was very expensive. Besides, you had to be on the client list for a top design house and have garments made specifically for you. You couldn't walk in off the street.
Some Department stores bought the rights to line-for-line copies of Haute Couture designs. The only real mass production was happening in America.
Then later on Vogue magazine produce designs that we could all make at home. By the early Fifties we were all wearing 'The New Look'.

The 'New Look'

In my point of view the 'New Look' by Christian Dior, was an explosion during that time, because the collection had such impact in the era that pretty much everyone commented about it in good and bad way.
The main reason why 'New Look' by Christian Dior was so shocking was because the population wasnt used to it, specially at that era where they had to up cycle and recycle their own costs because they didnt have enough sources or finances because of the war at the time. By being introduced by a French designer made even more difficult for working people to have acess as you needed to be wealthy.The name was given after a report exclaimed that the collection was a 'New Look' for everyone. In this collection the silhouette was small nipped in waist, with full skirt mid calf length which made the hips and waist stand out. At the time Dior used very expensive and extravagant fabrics, it was also very popular in all Europe and USA, and designers Robert Perrier. After the war the styles of the collection was used everywhere inclusive UK princess Margaret.  

Day in Life Interview life style 2013!!

Day In Life (Interview 2013)














My day started off by interviewing a member of staff in college regarding, their day in life 2013.
I asked a few questions about:

• What is in fashion at the moment?
• What type of careers can women have in this decade?
• What world effects are currently happening that can effect the popularity?
• How do you relate to your idol, and why it is your idol?
• Do you like living in this era?
• Who inspires you to dress the way you do?

What is in fashion at the moment?
I quiet like the fact in fashion at the moment, that people behave the freedom to wear what they want to wear. I think in previous decades there was stuff that was in fashion and everybody followed that, where as now people are able to wear and put their look together, so vintage shops are quiet fashionable and people also mix and match from other shops.
I quiet like the freedom that everything goes and it is more about individuality.
People are looking more individual, and if you don't want to look like everybody else is OK. Which in the previous decade if you don't look the same it would be seen  as very bad.

What type of careers can women have in this decade?
At the moment women can do everything they want to do, equal to man.
The only area that women can't get through yet, is very senior Management and politics, which is a area that pretty much is lead by man.
The only negative point is that women are expected to work as well taking care of the household (chorus), even though they work. Men are still lazy 

What world effects are currently happening that can effect the popularity?
The recession has started 5 years ago, therefore society were purchasing designers labels. Then when recession hit hard people decided to start buying vintage. But now in 2013 people have started buying designer labels again, as they want quality from fashion.They will spend more in item that will last, rather then going to Primark and buy loads and loads of items for a cheap price. 
People want to invest money in good clothes. 
When Primark started, the clothes were good but now the prices dropped tremendously low that the quality has been affected too. 

How do you relate to your idol and why it is your idol?
I like celebrities that are classy, I wouldn't say Kate Middleton is the best example, but I like her because she is sophisticated and has class I could also say Sarah Jessica Parker. I dislike Rihanna because, she has no sophistication in what she wears. I think you can wear revealing clothes but still look sophisticated, that is what I like, for example Nicole from the girls band pussycat dolls. 
Perceives personality too, and what people will think about you.

Do you like living in this Era?
There is good points about living in this era which is women Liberty, but the world now is not a very nice place to live, because of whats going. People in this era are quiet selfish and greedy, and would do anything to get to the top and have no manners.
While in 1950s people were more appreciative and kind.
Hard society to live in, specially if you are a women, because you have to be good at everything. 

Who inspires you to dress the way you do?
Very classy People.

Day In Life (Interview 1950's)





I inducted an interview of my manager Teresa Latham from work that is from the (1950's).
I asked a few questions about:

What is in fashion at the moment in the 1950's?

• What type of careers can women have in this decade?
• What world effects are currently happening that can effect the popularity?
• How do you relate to your idol, and why it is your idol?
• Do you like living in this era?
• Who inspires you to dress the way you do?

What is in fashion at the moment?

This decade war remarkable by the Christian Dior ' New Look', which made a lot of difference to the community way of dressing. In the Fifties women wore rounded and flare dresses (aka ballerina), and corsets for the waists, to delicate and feminine look. Jackets with peplum waists was also very in use, to enhance the silhouette and give the figure a rounded posture. Pencil skirt was also introduce in this era, and was very popular.

What type of careers can women have in this decade?
The type of careers that was available to women in this decade were: factory assembly lines, service industry or domestic servants, very few of them had management position.

What word effects were currently happening that could have effected the popularity?
A very important discover at this time was the famous DNA test that is used for paternity or maternity, to confirm the parenthood. Also the first organ transplant took place giving the opportunity for individuals to gain their lives back again.

How do you relate to your idol, and who is your idol?
I don't really have an idol that I kinder look up to. In the 1950s I use to have my clothes tailored o it was no need to go for shopping in the malls. Now normally go for a window shopping mainly in Marks Spencer, before buying them, I get an idea of the current styles and go for that.

Do you like living in this era?
I loved living in the era that I was born in, as it was a good environment to live in, even thou communication was that advance and so does technology, but people really cared about each other with more respect and honesty, something that it is hard to see in today's society.

Who inspires you to dress the way you do?
Like I said above, I don't really have an idol that inspires me the way I dress, mostly I follow the sophistication and elegance of Marks and Spencer collections.

By interviewing both women, I can compare the responses for their questions in the interviews.
They both very aware of what is going on in fashion, which is very good meaning they are update of whats is going on. The difference between both fashions decades were that, in 1950s fashion was more conservative meaning it would protect women from be more exposed in the view of public eye. Whilst in 2013 fashion is more liberal, women can express their own personalities and points of views by the way they dress.
They know what careers went on at their current decades. In 1950s it was more about industrial work such as factories or even domestic services, while in 2013 era women can pretty much have any career as men even get to management positions. 
Both interviews dont have an idol, they look more for sophisticated, classic, elegant and modern.
The interview 1 or 2 like living in their eras, regarding their pros and cons.

In my point of view both interviews were interesting, because I could find out related information about the 1950s and 2013's, which made me think what Era I would personally like the most which was in the 2013's, because women rights are so much in movement, pretty much most careers women can do and the freedom of speech. 

Experiment In Illustrator!!

This image is an experiment on the illustration programme, in order to get used to the tools and make my t-shirts designs.

Who is your Fashion icon Kate Middleton or Miley Cyrus!!

Who is your fashion icon, Kate Middleton or Miley Cirus!

By looking and reading the different articles I come up with a conclusion that my Ideal fashion fashion icon, would be Miley Cyrus because, as she started a career in a very young age, working and representing for Disney channel, and now she is seen as a different  idol, because of series events that has current happen.
Media as commented about it that young generation were very disappoint of the way she was pursed. Oldham's best youth mag "says that Miley represents rebellious, provocative and a product of childhood fame".
While Kate Middleton, is portrayed as mature, smart and approachable. Students commented on the Oldham's best youth mag that"Kate is a role model that most parents would prefer their children to be like.
In my opinion Miley Cyrus is being herself, by doing what she desires without any pressure of the media, and also to discover what she likes and dislikes, and find who she is and wants to be.

In the other hand Kate Middleton, has the pressure of the media to be at her best behavior as she belongs to the royal family, and has a image to portray to the public and social class.

The Oldham's best youth mag also states that" the media has the power to portray celebrities both negatively and positively.

A Cosmopolitan magazine article, about Mileys character and the real truth behind the innocent face.













Life and style magazine article, regarding Kate's £22,00 beauty
regime.

Chritian Dior Exhibition!!

Christian Dior

The following images are the primary research of Christian Dior Exhibition and also what I found most attractive in the Gallery of costume.

Ligne Aimant

Cocktail dress and Jacket,

Autumn/Winter 1996

A cocktail dress made from peach silk, printed with a Chinese style design in black, and embroidered all over. The slim line columnar dress has a high 'empire' wait and a narrow knee length skirt, whilst the matching boxy bolero-jacket has wide pointed lapels and full lining in black silk velvet. The whole ensemble is embroidery lavishly with black seed pearls, nacre livers, brass and cooper metal thread embroidery, with stylised small oriental figures and buildings.  

The Ligne Aimant Collection dispalyed in the gallery.

Ligne Trompe L'OEIL

Cocktail dress, Spring/ Summer 1949

This dress of black ribbed silk, has a separate tabbed bodice, with contrasting narrow and wide skirts to produce the twin silhouettes of the 'New Look'. This model is showing the narrow skirt whilst the full skirt is paired with Corolle line bodice of 1947.  

A Few elements of the collection (i.e ligne tulip and ligne verticale)

Ligne Zigzag

Day dress, Spring/Summer 1948

Dior second major collection after the 'New Look', played with asymmetry and parallel lines, as in this gently spiralling, tiered skirt. This outfit exemplifies Dior early couture styling, often in black and with a deceptive simplicity and immaculate cut.

1960s and 1970s collection.

1980s and 1990s collection, a slighty changed in more modern garments.

 

2000s garments examples.

Stripped Bias-Cut Evening dress, 1934-5

A sleeves fitted evening dress in black rayon crepe, woven with ribbon stripes in red, yellow, green and blue, which highlight, the contrasting bias-cut panels. The skirt is cut in 6 main panels with 12 gores towards the hem allowing, the skirt to flare out. The hem trimmed, with applied bands in colored stripes to match the main fabric of the dress.   

A few garments from the decades 1930's until 1940's.

An evening dress from the 1957's and cocktail dress from 1956's.

A combination of cocktails dresses from 1952 and 1956 decades.

A Corset, Thomsons Crioline, chemise and drawers and cap, from the decade 1860s-70.

Different types of women bodice from the era 1650s-80.

Women Jacket from 1670's-1700.

Fan 1650's-70

This fan is one of the earliest, that has a darkly painted paper leaf in gouache, showing a classical garden scene. It belonged to Lady Elizabeth Crowley.

What makes the Christian Dior  outfits 'Haute Couture' is the uniqueness of the clothing, knowing that nobody will have the exactly same garment, as well as the details that are implemented in most garments, the main technique used is hand embroidery, because it was more acessible at the time, rather than sewing or industrials machnies.  
Christian Dior, used a lot of expensive fabrics to make the garments (i.e silk, velvet, felt and wool) at that time only people that could afford, would wear 'Haute Couture'.
I also notice that most of the dresses and skirts were knee lenght high, which made very sophisticated, classic and elegant for the era.
From what I have seen and felt, the 'ligne and aimant cocktail dress' was very heavy in fabric, but with a soft feel and delicacy in the hand embroidery, whereas the 'ligne zizag dress', was very asymetric, with tier skirt attach and a light and soft fabric made of which was in the (New Look).


What is Haute Couture?
'Haute Couture' is term used to describe the creation of unique custom fitted clothing. Is gaments that is constructed without the use of sewing, industrials machines, from the beginning to finish, normally made from high quality and expensive fabric, with extreme attention to detail, very time consuming and it is needed hand techniques.

An example of Haute Couture by Christian Dior.

Differences between High Street and Catwalk!!

Circus Collection

John Galliano Catwalk

What, makes this garment a catwalk garment is the volunptuos size that is made out of, as in reality a garment that big would'nt be the most appropriate to wear, so that is only seen in catwalk.

Is not usually seen in the Hight Street for its dimension.

Mainly target to designers to get inspirations for future collections.

Vibrant and colourful colours used, just like in circus.

The facial make up applied is big, catchy and most of the times to go with garment.

The styles are not confortable for High Street. 

Desigual High Street

This garments are consider to be a high street garments because, it is usually seen in stores mainly for different target audience to purchase.

Most of the times is followed by trends (i.e Sping/summer, Autumm/Winter).

It is visually interesting to buyers, as they will be doing sketches of the designs and produce enumorous amounts in the fabrics to get to the shop floor as soon as.

Is high street style and the most principal it is comfortable for everyday wear.

It is small time consuming for the manufacturers.

The difference between Catwalk and High Street



The big difference between Catwalk and High street fashion are: the catwalk designers are having their garments copy by the high street because, they can create something similar that will be profitable for the shop floor and the information they can transfer within hours. As the Catwalk designers are very strict in copying the exact same garments, so the high street tend to just take the influence rather than the actually copy.

Fashion can be for everyone, but not everyone will be able to afford it, as most of the Catwalk garments can be affordable for a high social class, whereas High street fashion is more suitable for social class.

Catwalk fashion garments, it is not suitable for everyday wear as it is an exclusive piece that is only seen on the catwalk, and the reproduce into small samples. 

High Street fashion is target to any type of the audience, as pretty much anyone can afford it and still be within the fashion.

Overall in my point of view, people are more than welcome to decide from what retailer they want to purchase either catwalk designer or High street, as long they don't create conflict, pressure and unfairness.      



Circus Cabaret Outfit!!

Research Contemporary and Historical Fashion Visualizations

Elsa Schiaparelli; Circus Collection

These two garments were the best choice of Elsa Schiaparelli in circus collections.
I choose them because, of their colours, designs, meanings and the impact that it had in the audience.

The 'tear dress', it was inspired by her African iconography, that was incorporated in Circus collection. The slim fit, and the split on the side it gives the dress elegance and classic touch, the head-veil makes it even more interesting and secretive to the person that is wearing, creating an illusion.
The colors are bright, it catches the attention of anyone, the most appropriate for the circus.

The materials used were viscose-rayon and silk blend fabric printed with trompe l'oil print.

This garment, could inspire me in my final piece, as it has bright colours that link into my mood board and style as I used a pattern(checks, stipes and also textures) and colour palette (blue, purple, grey and violet). The designs are also very attractive (i.e tear design), but in my sketches I could use one of my geometric shapes as it is inspired by future in fashion. The meaning behind my design will be understood by the research and whole develop as well the ideas.

This garment is another beautiful production of Elsa of the 'Circus Collection'.

What make s this jacket interesting is the bright pink fitted fabric that has repeated horse patterns in blue and the buttons they are made of cast in form of acrobats which is was kinder of her signature as she has done other garments, that the buttons were elephants, dogs and clowns.

The materials used to construct this garments were silk and cast metal buttons.

This gament is very inspirational, as I could use some of my desings and practice the printing and soon as I reach perfection I could apply.




Bauhaus Triadic Ballet

The costumes of the 'Bauhaus Triadic Ballet', were big and attractive and consisted of some geometric forms. In order to produce the enormous garments, the designer took into consideration all the aspects of designing, typography, fashion,  architecture and interior design. The designer wanted the audience to figure out geometric forms, balance compositions and an futuristic look in their designs while they perform. 

 

The Bauhaus Triadiac Ballet are known for its large and geometrics garments in their perfomances,that definetly will inspire me for my final garment as I am looking at future in fashion combine with architecture, so different sizes of large garments like normal architure, with the colour and pattern pallete.

Galliano Circus collection

http://www.firstpost.com/topic/person/john-galliano-gallianos-circus-spring-summer-1997-video-0TeEDbNugg8-4655-7.html

The designer circus collection was well appreciated, from designers all the way to the audience, has it was something different in the catwalk.
Galliano used circus space with all the assets in it from sand, all way to balls, to create a better atmosphere for the audience.
He also invited the most famous models to take part, in order to promote better.

The garments that I choose from the collection were a bright blazer with sequins and Galliano's name at the back, and also loose trouser with suspenders, with a fitted shirt. The make up team did a perfect job with make up on the models.

 

Jonh Galiano designs in Circus theme collection will inspire me, by using lots of detail, sequins and embroidery in my final gament, but still linking into my initial development and reserach, and take further, by adding designers ideas directly from the catwalk.  

Desigual Du Soleil]

As a bright and colorful bold designs and fun in is fashionable designs the brand, took a step ahead by creating a collection inspired in 'Cirque Du soleil'.
The collection has grown out of the fusion between two worlds which share a passion of evoking emotions, memorable experiences and remaining at the leading edge of creativity and innovation.

The collection, which consists of  over 50 different garments and accessories for men, women and children, is based in three distinctive themes: Costumes, Troupe and Human Expressions, it is all seen in Circus show.

 

 

Desigual Du soleil and their bright colours,bold designs fashionable designs, are definetly inspirational for my final garment ideas, as with my colour palette I could create a very nice sequins, add my own designs from mood boad, which I created in an illustrator programme and futurely sampling into -t-shirts.

 

Images Related to Circus (research)

Different types of dresses wore by celebrities, Snake print, Meat and sequin.

Colorful jumpsuit wore by the singer while performing, Ideal for circus Cabaret Outfit.

Singer Ester wearing, different types of circus outfit, inspired by Gothic. 

Celebrities wearing different types of prints, that could be related into Circus Cabaret Outfit by the different textures.

 

Singer Nick Minaj wearing a long jumpsuit and head piece that could be related to Circus Cabaret Outfit.

Bubble dress with loads of layers, wore by the singuer Nick minaj, again could be related to Circus of the Cabaret, by the layers and the quantity of fabric.

Feathers dress worn by the singer, it has different layers and see through.

Amazing head piece that has lights included.

Ice skating performance by a couple, with Hawaii costumes. 

Celebrities rocking extravagant outfits to important events, making their clothing a statement.

Catwalk outfits, based on Chinese new year, vibrant colors were applied, ideas that could be used in Circus Cabaret.

Geometric shapes garments, in catwalk.

Diverse styles applied by the celebrities individuality.

Enormous catwalk garments, that could relate to Circus Cabaret Outfit.

Singer lady Gaga with different styles of garments, from extreme to extreme.

Ballon outfit wore by Singer Lady Gaga, wich again can relate to Circus Cabaret Outfit.

Singer with different outfits, that could be related to Circus Cabaret Outfit by their colours.

White catwalk outfit, balloon shorts and loose top.

Zebra outfit, used in performance by the singer.

Catwalk model wearing grass in her garment, representing nature.

Catwalk model wearing cones in her outfit with Chinese printing. 

An illusion jumpsuit, that is related to Circus cabaret as it is what most people think that is.

Massive garments used in a catwalk show, it could be related to Circus Cabaret as it is very attractive and makes a statement.

Head piece wore by the model in a event. It is attractive and big which makes perfect for Circus Cabaret.

Singer wearing a balloon made top, 'stating fashion is extreme', also for Circus Cabaret, as includes loads of colors and textures.

A garment made of gold in a catwalk show,' meaning behind is how much can a garment be worth', it can be related to Circus Cabaret, as it function well for the audience.