Sunday, 8 December 2013

Chritian Dior Exhibition!!


Christian Dior

The following images are the primary research of Christian Dior Exhibition and also what I found most attractive in the Gallery of costume.


Ligne Aimant
Cocktail dress and Jacket,
Autumn/Winter 1996

A cocktail dress made from peach silk, printed with a Chinese style design in black, and embroidered all over. The slim line columnar dress has a high 'empire' wait and a narrow knee length skirt, whilst the matching boxy bolero-jacket has wide pointed lapels and full lining in black silk velvet. The whole ensemble is embroidery lavishly with black seed pearls, nacre livers, brass and cooper metal thread embroidery, with stylised small oriental figures and buildings.  

The Ligne Aimant Collection dispalyed in the gallery.

Ligne Trompe L'OEIL
Cocktail dress, Spring/ Summer 1949

This dress of black ribbed silk, has a separate tabbed bodice, with contrasting narrow and wide skirts to produce the twin silhouettes of the 'New Look'. This model is showing the narrow skirt whilst the full skirt is paired with Corolle line bodice of 1947.  

A Few elements of the collection (i.e ligne tulip and ligne verticale)
Ligne Zigzag
Day dress, Spring/Summer 1948

Dior second major collection after the 'New Look', played with asymmetry and parallel lines, as in this gently spiralling, tiered skirt. This outfit exemplifies Dior early couture styling, often in black and with a deceptive simplicity and immaculate cut.

1960s and 1970s collection.

1980s and 1990s collection, a slighty changed in more modern garments.

 
2000s garments examples.

Stripped Bias-Cut Evening dress, 1934-5
A sleeves fitted evening dress in black rayon crepe, woven with ribbon stripes in red, yellow, green and blue, which highlight, the contrasting bias-cut panels. The skirt is cut in 6 main panels with 12 gores towards the hem allowing, the skirt to flare out. The hem trimmed, with applied bands in colored stripes to match the main fabric of the dress.   

A few garments from the decades 1930's until 1940's.

An evening dress from the 1957's and cocktail dress from 1956's.

A combination of cocktails dresses from 1952 and 1956 decades.

A Corset, Thomsons Crioline, chemise and drawers and cap, from the decade 1860s-70.

Different types of women bodice from the era 1650s-80.

Women Jacket from 1670's-1700.

Fan 1650's-70
This fan is one of the earliest, that has a darkly painted paper leaf in gouache, showing a classical garden scene. It belonged to Lady Elizabeth Crowley.



What makes the Christian Dior  outfits 'Haute Couture' is the uniqueness of the clothing, knowing that nobody will have the exactly same garment, as well as the details that are implemented in most garments, the main technique used is hand embroidery, because it was more acessible at the time, rather than sewing or industrials machnies.  
Christian Dior, used a lot of expensive fabrics to make the garments (i.e silk, velvet, felt and wool) at that time only people that could afford, would wear 'Haute Couture'.
I also notice that most of the dresses and skirts were knee lenght high, which made very sophisticated, classic and elegant for the era.
From what I have seen and felt, the 'ligne and aimant cocktail dress' was very heavy in fabric, but with a soft feel and delicacy in the hand embroidery, whereas the 'ligne zizag dress', was very asymetric, with tier skirt attach and a light and soft fabric made of which was in the (New Look).


What is Haute Couture?
'Haute Couture' is term used to describe the creation of unique custom fitted clothing. Is gaments that is constructed without the use of sewing, industrials machines, from the beginning to finish, normally made from high quality and expensive fabric, with extreme attention to detail, very time consuming and it is needed hand techniques.

An example of Haute Couture by Christian Dior.





Differences between High Street and Catwalk!!


Circus Collection

John Galliano Catwalk

What, makes this garment a catwalk garment is the volunptuos size that is made out of, as in reality a garment that big would'nt be the most appropriate to wear, so that is only seen in catwalk.
Is not usually seen in the Hight Street for its dimension.
Mainly target to designers to get inspirations for future collections.
Vibrant and colourful colours used, just like in circus.
The facial make up applied is big, catchy and most of the times to go with garment.
The styles are not confortable for High Street. 


Desigual High Street


This garments are consider to be a high street garments because, it is usually seen in stores mainly for different target audience to purchase.
Most of the times is followed by trends (i.e Sping/summer, Autumm/Winter).
It is visually interesting to buyers, as they will be doing sketches of the designs and produce enumorous amounts in the fabrics to get to the shop floor as soon as.
Is high street style and the most principal it is comfortable for everyday wear.
It is small time consuming for the manufacturers.















The big difference between Catwalk and High street fashion are: the catwalk designers are having their garments copy by the high street because, they can create something similar that will be profitable for the shop floor and the information they can transfer within hours. As the Catwalk designers are very strict in copying the exact same garments, so the high street tend to just take the influence rather than the actually copy.
Fashion can be for everyone, but not everyone will be able to afford it, as most of the Catwalk garments can be affordable for a high social class, whereas High street fashion is more suitable for social class.
Catwalk fashion garments, it is not suitable for everyday wear as it is an exclusive piece that is only seen on the catwalk, and the reproduce into small samples. 
High Street fashion is target to any type of the audience, as pretty much anyone can afford it and still be within the fashion.
Overall in my point of view, people are more than welcome to decide from what retailer they want to purchase either catwalk designer or High street, as long they don't create conflict, pressure and unfairness.      












Sunday, 17 November 2013

Circus Cabaret Outfit!!



Research Contemporary and Historical Fashion Visualizations

Elsa Schiaparelli; Circus Collection


These two garments were the best choice of Elsa Schiaparelli in circus collections.
I choose them because, of their colours, designs, meanings and the impact that it had in the audience.

The 'tear dress', it was inspired by her African iconography, that was incorporated in Circus collection. The slim fit, and the split on the side it gives the dress elegance and classic touch, the head-veil makes it even more interesting and secretive to the person that is wearing, creating an illusion.
The colors are bright, it catches the attention of anyone, the most appropriate for the circus.

The materials used were viscose-rayon and silk blend fabric printed with trompe l'oil print.

This garment, could inspire me in my final piece, as it has bright colours that link into my mood board and style as I used a pattern(checks, stipes and also textures) and colour palette (blue, purple, grey and violet). The designs are also very attractive (i.e tear design), but in my sketches I could use one of my geometric shapes as it is inspired by future in fashion. The meaning behind my design will be understood by the research and whole develop as well the ideas.









This garment is another beautiful production of Elsa of the 'Circus Collection'.

What make s this jacket interesting is the bright pink fitted fabric that has repeated horse patterns in blue and the buttons they are made of cast in form of acrobats which is was kinder of her signature as she has done other garments, that the buttons were elephants, dogs and clowns.

The materials used to construct this garments were silk and cast metal buttons.

This gament is very inspirational, as I could use some of my desings and practice the printing and soon as I reach perfection I could apply.




Bauhaus Triadic Ballet

The costumes of the 'Bauhaus Triadic Ballet', were big and attractive and consisted of some geometric forms. In order to produce the enormous garments, the designer took into consideration all the aspects of designing, typography, fashion,  architecture and interior design. The designer wanted the audience to figure out geometric forms, balance compositions and an futuristic look in their designs while they perform. 

 
The Bauhaus Triadiac Ballet are known for its large and geometrics garments in their perfomances,that definetly will inspire me for my final garment as I am looking at future in fashion combine with architecture, so different sizes of large garments like normal architure, with the colour and pattern pallete.


Galliano Circus collection



The designer circus collection was well appreciated, from designers all the way to the audience, has it was something different in the catwalk.
Galliano used circus space with all the assets in it from sand, all way to balls, to create a better atmosphere for the audience.
He also invited the most famous models to take part, in order to promote better.

The garments that I choose from the collection were a bright blazer with sequins and Galliano's name at the back, and also loose trouser with suspenders, with a fitted shirt. The make up team did a perfect job with make up on the models.


Jonh Galiano designs in Circus theme collection will inspire me, by using lots of detail, sequins and embroidery in my final gament, but still linking into my initial development and reserach, and take further, by adding designers ideas directly from the catwalk.  

Desigual Du Soleil]

As a bright and colorful bold designs and fun in is fashionable designs the brand, took a step ahead by creating a collection inspired in 'Cirque Du soleil'.
The collection has grown out of the fusion between two worlds which share a passion of evoking emotions, memorable experiences and remaining at the leading edge of creativity and innovation.

The collection, which consists of  over 50 different garments and accessories for men, women and children, is based in three distinctive themes: Costumes, Troupe and Human Expressions, it is all seen in Circus show.
 
 
Desigual Du soleil and their bright colours,bold designs fashionable designs, are definetly inspirational for my final garment ideas, as with my colour palette I could create a very nice sequins, add my own designs from mood boad, which I created in an illustrator programme and futurely sampling into -t-shirts.
 
Images Related to Circus (research)

Different types of dresses wore by celebrities, Snake print, Meat and sequin.

Colorful jumpsuit wore by the singer while performing, Ideal for circus Cabaret Outfit.

Singer Ester wearing, different types of circus outfit, inspired by Gothic. 

Celebrities wearing different types of prints, that could be related into Circus Cabaret Outfit by the different textures.

 
Singer Nick Minaj wearing a long jumpsuit and head piece that could be related to Circus Cabaret Outfit.

Bubble dress with loads of layers, wore by the singuer Nick minaj, again could be related to Circus of the Cabaret, by the layers and the quantity of fabric.

Feathers dress worn by the singer, it has different layers and see through.

Amazing head piece that has lights included.

Ice skating performance by a couple, with Hawaii costumes. 

Celebrities rocking extravagant outfits to important events, making their clothing a statement.

Catwalk outfits, based on Chinese new year, vibrant colors were applied, ideas that could be used in Circus Cabaret.

Geometric shapes garments, in catwalk.

Diverse styles applied by the celebrities individuality.

Enormous catwalk garments, that could relate to Circus Cabaret Outfit.

Singer lady Gaga with different styles of garments, from extreme to extreme.

Ballon outfit wore by Singer Lady Gaga, wich again can relate to Circus Cabaret Outfit.

Singer with different outfits, that could be related to Circus Cabaret Outfit by their colours.

White catwalk outfit, balloon shorts and loose top.

Zebra outfit, used in performance by the singer.

Catwalk model wearing grass in her garment, representing nature.

Catwalk model wearing cones in her outfit with Chinese printing. 

An illusion jumpsuit, that is related to Circus cabaret as it is what most people think that is.

Massive garments used in a catwalk show, it could be related to Circus Cabaret as it is very attractive and makes a statement.

Head piece wore by the model in a event. It is attractive and big which makes perfect for Circus Cabaret.

Singer wearing a balloon made top, 'stating fashion is extreme', also for Circus Cabaret, as includes loads of colors and textures.

A garment made of gold in a catwalk show,' meaning behind is how much can a garment be worth', it can be related to Circus Cabaret, as it function well for the audience.






Tuesday, 12 November 2013

What effects fashion?!


Who decides what is in Fashion?

The decisions comes from:
trend forecaster, culture, stylist,seasons, celebrities, religion, fashion designers, the public (audience), stores, fashion journalist, fashion, fashion forecaster, world events, recession, music and media.

Trend Forecaster
A color palette, with future colors for next season.



Fashion Designer

A predicted collection from a fashion designer.

Stylist prediction


A gathered future collection from a stylist, future prediction.